Ok, a little back-story before we begin. While living in Italy, I had a roommate who cut out a photo in a magazine of an incredible location somewhere in the Italian Alps. One weekend we decided to find that exact place with no prior planning. Just a photo and a train ticket north from Siena, Italy. This was our quest.
Our adventure began as we headed north on a Eurostar train to Trento, Italy. When we arrived we had no plan and no clue where to go. The adventurousness of not knowing what was in our future was exhilarating. There’s nothing like being spontaneous and rolling with the punches.
Fortunately for us, we found a hostel within five minutes for only 14 Euro a night, which is fairly cheap for Europe. My roommate tried talking the hostel keeper down by offering MY services as a dish washer, but the price was firm. At least he tried.
After us 3 three guys each got a bed in the hostel, we explored Trento. The central Plaza in Trento was beautiful, clean, and had a centrally lit fountain. To add to it’s beauty was the Duomo and castle that were encasing the Plaza. It’s truly one of the most beautiful central Plazas I’ve seen in my life.
Central Fountain & Castle Tower
With being in such a beautiful location, the 3 of us were riding a high. We were finally away from our counterparts studying in Siena. We were studying with 40 females and the 3 of us were the only “normal” guys in the group. On paper it looks amazing, but in practice it’s a nightmare. No offense, but if you get 40 women fighting over finite resources, it gets ugly.
Us 3 guys were happy to just get away for a little while and enjoy a drama free weekend. We had fresh mountain air, Austrian and Swiss inspired architecture, and friendly locals to look forward to. How could we not smile?
The next morning we hopped on a train to Bolzano. This was when we really started our quest to find the location of the photo. We began asking people on the train if they knew where the picture came from and got an answer when we talked to the tourist office in Bolzano.
The friendly tourist aid told us that we needed to get to Santa Magdalena via bus. So that’s what we did.
At first, it was just the 3 of us on the bus, but then it quickly filled with school children. They looked at us in wonder and we tried communicating, but soon realized these were German speaking Italians. We had Italian down, but none of us had any clue how to speak German.
So we sat back and enjoyed what little kids do on a bus. A fight broke out between two boys and there was teasing all around. Oh, to be a kid again.
As we came closer to Santa Magdalena, it became clear we were getting very close to our end destination. Sheer granite mountain faces towered over lush green valleys and forests. At the final stop, the bus driver told of us of a good trail to hike as well as where the photo was taken. We were in business!
Once out of the bus, it finally hit us. We were there.
The Dolomites dominated the landscape thousands of feet overhead. We walked through fields of Dandelions with a single church in the meadow. We were literally standing next to the church in the photo.
I honestly couldn’t believe my eyes. After a day and a half of traveling, we were finally there. And I would’ve traveled another day and a half to get there!
We still had our backpacks so we hid them in some brush and headed up the trail. In the entire hike, we saw no more then 20 souls. Just us and nature.
After hiking an hour and a half, we reached a meadow with a restaurant at the base of the granite cliffs. We found another trail taking us higher in the mountains and went for it despite the impending rain clouds.
As we went higher and higher, I was convinced this is where desktop backgrounds came from.
When we reached the summit, it got colder, darker, and rain looked inevitable. Seeing how we were only in shorts and t-shirts, we decided to head back down. After feeling a few rain drops, we began jogging back to the meadow with the restaurant below.
Luckily, we hitched a ride with 2 Germans down to the bottom of the valley where our bags were. This was just the beginning of generosity we received while in this region of Italy.
Once at the bottom of the valley, we searched for the exact spot where the photo was taken before sunset. When we did, it was the most amazingly gratifying feeling. We did it!
We still hadn’t found a place to stay and it was getting dark. The first hotel we talked to wanted 25 Euro per person. We thought this was crazy and continued our search. Upon talking with a local elder, he told us to “Go pray at the church and we might get a better price.”
Also, we arrived in low tourist season. Barely anything was open. Only 1 hotel and a couple restaurants were open for business. Things were getting desperate.
Upon realizing that if we slept in a barn, we would probably freeze to death, we went back to the first hotel and attempted to bargain.
The hotel owner agreed that for 25 Euro we would also get fed dinner and breakfast the next morning. We happily agreed. She asked what we would like and we responded, “Pizza, pasta, sandwich, etc…”
She responded, “How about sausage and potatoes?” We happily agreed.
This lady literally made us an authentic meal from scratch. She went back into the kitchen and after 30 minutes, we were enjoying sausage, potatoes, ham, and sauerkraut.
Remember, this part of Italy used to be Austria and Switzerland before World War 2 and they still maintain the traditions and languages of those countries.
After getting cleaned up, we took a walk outside to see if anything was going on. It was dead quiet, but upon our return a cute local girl invited us to go to her apartment 30 minutes away. We were caught so off guard, neither of us knew what to say. To be approached by an Italian female was not normal.
We went up to our room to discuss and upon delegation, decided to go for it. Unfortunately, when we returned she was gone. Judging by the friendliness of the locals around, I can only assume her intentions were good and she wasn’t going to rob us, but I guess I’ll never know. Missed opportunity!
One major difference in this region was that they never saw Americans. They treated us like celebrities, were friendly, and took genuine interest in what we had to say. It was refreshing after having some negative attitudes towards us being American from other regions around Europe.
The next day, we got up for sunrise and had an early morning breakfast. A nice German couple told us that we must see the next valley over. Unfortunately for us, we only had one day so we couldn’t hike over the pass.
Instead, we hitchhiked down the valley and then up the next one. It was incredible how easily it was to be picked up. No more than 5 cars passed us before hitching a ride.
We even got picked up by a mother and daughter. I don’t know about you, but for a mother and daughter to pick up 3 male strangers takes a lot of trust and goodwill. Another reason the Northern Italian Alps region is amazing.
We spent the next day hiking up through another valley with spectacular views. The best way I can describe it as is that it was a spiritual experience tied with nature (I’m trying not to go all hippie on you here). The views were some of the best I’ve seen in my whole life.
The next day we had to return to Siena. But the 3 of us were changed after that experience. It’s impossible to explain, but what we saw and went through together penetrated the core of our souls.
When people asked how it was, we could only say, “Amazing.” There were no words that could do it justice.
So if you ever find yourself in Northern Italy, check out the Dolomites. It’s a trip you won’t soon forget.
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Yes, now I really hate you. Judas.
Don’t worry, exact coordinates weren’t given so the secret is still safe
Yeah right, keep telling yourself that.
This a great story. I want to start my travels soon and I’ll be sure to add this to my list. Also, I would have been wayyy to scared to go to that girl’s apartment. I guess I’ve seen the movie ‘hostel’ too many times.
My family’s from Switzerland (part of them, anyway, haha). I can’t wait to travel there one day!
Hey Rachael,
The Alps are one of my favorite regions in the world. Definitely worth the effort to get there
Wow what a wonderful story. I am about to embark on a similar journey.
My father, 88 years old, was in bolzanno, italy during the war.
We have a photograph of the Palace of the Duke of Pistoia, Bolzanno,
which was the HQ of the german SS Comander Wolf.
We are visiting at the end of July and will be staying in Merano but
taking the trip to Bolzanno to find what happened to the building.
Have had no luck at all on the internet, spending hours trawling through pages
on Bolzanno – that is how I came upon your story. Wish us luck, thanks.